You might be wondering, what is an egg doing inside that cookie? Well, if you’re Italian or midwestern (and I’m both), you might be familiar with the season of Lent. In the Catholic church, the 40 days before Easter are set aside for fasting. People observing Lent can’t eat certain foods—and traditionally, one of those foods was eggs.
In the good old days of backyard chickens, by the time Lent was over, everybody in Italy had a stockpile of eggs. And somehow, those eggs needed to get used up. Incidentally, lots of the other foods we enjoy on Easter were also off the menu during lent: lamb, pork, milk, and butter, just to name a few. All that stuff needed to be eaten, too. Enter decorative egg-filled breads, traditional Easter foods like ham, and cuddura (also called pupa cu l’ova).
It’s one of those things that’s been passed down from generation to generation. Even though we never had chickens in our backyard, my mom would always prepare for Easter by coloring dozens and dozens of eggs. Some of them were hidden for the Easter egg hunt, some were turned into egg salad, and some were set aside for cookies.